One tiny island
I could write a million things about all the beautiful parts of Maui to see, and truth is after visiting Maui my entire life, not even I have seen everything I would like too. When most people vacation on Maui, they are there for approximately 7 - 14 days. This blog contains what I feel is the important highlights and insider tips to get a well rounded experience of the whole island. I have designed these days for the adventurous soul, if you prefer leaving later in the morning, being back at your accommodations for supper every evening, or have small children with sleep schedules etc, then of course you can modify. But, when I am on island, I am typically out from sunrise to sunset to get the most out of my experience there, so my itineraries are written as so.
I encourage that every time you leave your accommodations you bring a backpack with the essentials: Bathing suit, towel, change of clothes, sandals, good footwear (runners or hiking boots), water shoes, water bottle, snacks, camera, sunscreen, hat, and a charging block for your phone.
This blog is divided in to 6 sections: A day on the north shore, The road to Hana, Haleakala Crater, Kihei + Wailea, Lahaina, and some extras.
A Day on the North Shore
The little towns of Makawao and Paia
Mostly known for their unique shopping experiences, I suggest combining these two into one day. Depending on where you are staying on Maui, geographically, these two towns are approximately a 15 minute drive from each other.
If you have a sweet tooth like me, then I suggest starting your day at Kamoda bakery in Makawao as close to 7am as you can. Kamoda bakery is a family owned store located on Baldwin avenue, they are famous for their fresh bread, pies, and donuts including guava-filled malasadas, cream puffs, and my personal favourite, vanilla custard long johns. They open at 7am Mon - Tues, Thu -Sat, and close when they sell out (which is not long after).
After visiting the cute shops in Makwao, you can continue down Baldwin avenue approximately 10km to the town of Paia.
The gallery's, the clothing boutiques, the food, Paia can get very busy for good reason. My personal favourite clothing store is Mahina. My favourite place to eat is Cafe Des Amis, their creative selection of both savoury and sweet crepes will fulfil all your crepe needs!
Twin Falls
Twin Falls park is on the road to Hana. If you're tired of shopping, and yearning for some waterfalls and jungle, it is a great extension of your Paia/Makwao day. Located 30 minutes East of Paia there will most likely be traffic control guiding you to the payed parking. Twin falls is very commercialized which I typically try to opt away from, but the bonus of this is maintained pathways, food trucks, and washroom facilities. Twin falls includes multiple easily accessible swimming holes, and most especially, two side-by-side 'twin waterfalls'.
Ho'okipa Beach Park
Although the sun sets on the opposite side of the island, heading to Ho'okipa beach and the end of your Makwao/Paia day will surely put you at ease. Every evening, the large Maui sea turtles crawl up the beach for the night. The area is taped off for the safety of the turtles, and the locals get very upset if you try to get closer then you should so please do not do this, some things are just meant to be admired. There are many areas to be explored at Ho'okipa, but my number one way to end the day there is sitting in the grass bank just to the west of Ho'okipa, watching the surfers come in for the night, and watching the sky change to hues of pink and blues as the sun sets behind you.
*Please note that Ho'okipa is not a place to swim, this beach is on the open north shore of Maui with some of the biggest waves, unpredictable swells, and sharp coral reefs. I only see locals swim and surf here*
The turtles at Ho'okipa beach, May 2022
*Please note that these photos were taken with my telephoto zoom lens, always keep a safe distance from the turtles*
Sunset at Ho'okipa, December 2022
Sunset waves at Ho'okipa, December 2022
The road to Hana
Named one of the most dangerous roads in the world, (by folks who clearly have never driven some British Columbia logging roads in the snow and ice). The road to Hana is approximately 130km round trip starting in Paia and ending in Kula. Hundred's of waterfalls, lush jungles, and picturesque cliffside views, when choosing which of your group will be the driver for the road to Hana, keep in mind the road consists of single lane areas, sharp turns, and steep drop offs. The locals drive fast and it is best to show them respect and stay very aware of your surroundings.
The north side of the island is deemed the 'safest' route to drive to Hana, in fact many rental car companies will not allow you to take your car on the south side. But, if you are a confident driver, and your rental car company did not specify, I highly recommend driving out to Hana along the north shore past Paia, and then returning along the south shore coming back through Kula. If you can time it so that golden hour hits as you're driving back along the south shore, I promise you nothing is more beautiful. To finish off the day, a beautiful spot to watch the sunset is above any of the Kula meadows, just past the Maui winery. I wouldn't suggest staying past sunset anywhere east of Maui winery, the road to Hana and especially the south shore, is not safe at night.
As for food on your Hana day, I do suggest bringing a packed lunch. They have a few little restaurants out in Hana, but nothing spectacular, and the prices are crazy, so save your pennies on this one! But, in saying that, there is an outdoor market named 'Hana Farms' that has the BEST chocolate banana bread, and there is no problem with surviving off banana bread for the day.
The road to Hana has so many waterfalls on the side of the highway, if it is a safe area to park and get out then do this as much as you can.
I have linked the coordinates below to my personal favourite fresh water swimming hole along the Hana Highway.
Painted Trees: The painted trees are a popular tourist attraction and you can see them right along the side of the Hana highway. When heading East past Paia, around mile marker 7 is a small forest of Eucalyptus rainbow trees. If it is safe to park and walk over, the trees are worth having a look.
Waimoku Falls via Pipiwai Trail: I have only done this hike once but it immediately became on of my favourites. Located within the national park reserve in Hana, there is ample parking but there will be a park fee. Multiple waterfalls, bridges, banyon trees, rainforests, bamboo forests, all bring you out to see one of the most spectacular waterfalls that I have seen on Maui. If you can fit this in to your Hana day, keep in mind this hike itself can take a few hours if you're taking your time to look at everything. The trail can get very muddy and I suggest having good footwear. All information can be found on all trails.
*Safety tip: The road to Hana is out of cell service except for right in the town itself. The road to Hana is dangerous and not to be taken lightly, be well prepared for your trip with extra food, water, and clothing. The weather on the East side of the island is extreme and can change quickly, flash flooding is common and is strong enough to wipe full size vehicles off the road. Always let someone know when you are driving the road to Hana and when you expect to be home/back in cell coverage, even if this person is not on Maui, it is very important to have someone accountable for your where abouts*
Hana Highway South shore at golden hour, November 2018
Hana Highway South shore at golden hour, February 2019
Sunset from the side of Kula Highway, by the Maui Winery, February 2018
My favourite fresh water swimming hole located on the road to Hana, April 2019
Coordinates: 20.87217° N, 156.18703° W
Haleakala
The Haleakala crater is the non active volcano of Maui, situated over 10,000 feet above sea level, it can reach temperatures below freezing at the peak. You will need to wear your warmest clothing! I have even seen snow at the peak in February. Haleakala is part of the national park so you will need to obtain a park pass from the ranger station while driving through.
I highly suggest going up Haleakala for sunrise, it is a once in a lifetime opportunity. Unfortunately it has become such a popular attraction that you have to pre book your spot online to be up there, you can do that here on the national park website: https://www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/haleakala-sunrise-reservations.htm. Keep in mind the long drive to the peak and depending on where you're staying on island, plan out your timing accordingly.
As of lately, due to the increased difficulty securing a sunrise reservation, I started going up there for sunsets instead. Just as beautiful, you don't have to get up at 2am, and no reservations. But, folks are starting to catch on now and sunsets are becoming a very busy time. So, I would plan to be up there mid to late afternoon to give yourself enough time to explore around find a good spot to watch the sunset. (Tip: Bring some blankets, chairs, and hot chocolate for a cozy experience!)
Haleakala sunrise, facing east. September 2016.
Looking inside the Haleakala crater, May 2022
Haleakala sunset facing West, December 2022.
Haleakala sunset facing north above the clouds, December 2022.
A day on the South Shore
Kihei & Wailea
'A day on the south shore' is misconceiving, Kihei and Wailea cover a large area of the island and it is a happening and busy place! The beaches, the restaurants, the excursions, the list goes on.. but, if your time is limited then here are my highlights.
As for food, my favourites are:
The Tiki lounge
Located on South Kihei road and within the Kihei Kalama village, the Tiki Lounge is a great stop for some quick pub food. The lava flows are my favourite, and if you are not a big alcohol drinker like myself, the virgin lava flows are just a delicious! This is also a great central location to park and then walk around the shops in the Kalama village and then across the street to the beaches. If you're looking for souvenirs for your friends and family, the shops here are the place to get them.
Maui Brewing Company
Is a great place to eat and drink, they have a large outdoor area with yard games
Hawaiian Moons Natural Foods
If you are looking for some healthier options, Hawaiian Moons is a health food market with a cafe that includes many organic and plant based options. I enjoy getting any one of their smoothie bowls and then walking across the street to Kamaole beach to enjoy it.
As for activites:
Surfing
Some of the most beautiful beaches on Maui are located right in Kihei and Wailea. I encourage any one who is interested in trying surfing to take surfing lessons. A company that I personally like is Big Kahuna Surf lessons. The instructors are all great, they stay out in the water and help guide you onto the small waves, and they also take photos of you surfing.
Snorkeling
My favourite place to snorkel on the island is a beach called Makena landing. If you did not pack your own snorkel gear, you can rent it by hour or day at a great price from snorkel bobs. *Tip: The best time to go snorkelling is early in the morning before the swell comes in and makes the water murky. But, keep in mind that sharks come out for feeding at dawn and dusk.*
A drive
I do the drive to the end of Makena road and back pretty much every time I am on island. Starting from Kihei and continuing South East on South Kihei road will turn into Wailea Alanui Drive, then Makena Alaniu Road. This will cruise you through Wailea, Makena, and then as far as La Perouse Bay. There are endless beaches and reasons to stop along this drive, including some fresh fruit stands where they will open a coconut for you with a machete and give you a bamboo straw to drink the fresh coconut milk. A must see beach along this drive is wedding beach (also named secret cove beach or Makena cove). This small beach can be hard to find as when you drive by you only see a tall white fence with a small trail on the side. The beach is located at approximately 6900 Makena Road, there's only a few spots on the side of the road that are safe to park, so if your able, you will see why it is one of the most photographed beaches on Maui.
Before reaching the end of the road, you drive through the 'Lava fields' filled with hardened lava rocks. There has been no actively flowing lava on Maui for over 1000 years.
*Safety Tip: Never take any lava rock from Hawaii, it is not only illegal but is considered bad luck and will bring misfortune upon the thief, as per Pele's curse*
Snorkelling with the turtles at Makena landing, November 2018
Lahaina
Only two ways in and out of the West side of the island, Lahaina to me feels like a whole other world on such a small island. Unfortunately all of the main attractions of 'Front Street" Lahaina have been devastatingly taken by the 2023 fires.
There are still many great beaches and sites to see in the surrounding area.
Leoda's Pie Shop
Located off the side of route 30, Leoda's pie and sandwich shop is a must stop. Be prepared that the line up is typically out the door, but it is worth it!
The Nakalele Blowhole
If you're feeling brave, 'the blowhole' is around the north shore of Lahaina. The naturaly created lava tube starts from the rugged north shore and opens up approximately 30 feet inland. When strong waves crash up against the shore line, they travel up through the lava tube creating a blowhole effect. The rugged north shore is beautiful but PLEASE do not get close, this is such a dangerous spot and many people have died from the water sweeping them in. The blowhole can be safely admired from a distance.
Lahaina, facing the North at the West Maui Mountains, November 2018
Extras:
Here are a list of extra excursions and activities that don't necessarily take up an entire day and can easily be combined with other adventures:
-Maui Ocean Centre Aquarium and Imax theatre. I recommend fitting this one in if the weather is poor/raining. The current movie playing at the max theatre is a 3D documentary about humpback whales filmed in Maui waters and it does not disappoint. https://mauioceancenter.com/
-Iowa Valley. Located West of Wailuku this valley is a state park with maintained walkways and trails.
-Waihe'e ridge trail. One of my top hikes for Maui, this trail is located on the North shore and can be found on all trails. A large parking lot and well labeled trail will take you up to stunning views inside the maui mountain ridges. I highly suggest doing this trail early in the morning as clouds move in quickly to this area mid morning and visibility becomes poor.
-A Luau. The Hawaiian traditional evening event consisting of fire displays, hula dancing, and a Hawaiian feast, all beside an ocean front sunset. My personal favourite is the Grand Wailea Luau. *Tip: if you have a Costco membership, visit the Costco in Kahului at the start of your trip, they often have different excursion deals you can purchase for things like luau's, snorkelling tours, whale watching tours, and dinner sunset cruises etc.*
-Kihei Scooter day rental. Who said you have to tour around Kihei by car? I have had some of my funnest days with friends whipping around on an electric or gas powered scooter from the Maui Scooter Shack on the corner of South Kiehi road and Waimahaihai street. One small tank of gas should last you all day and the mopeds can be rented for as little as $69 per day. https://www.mauiscootershack.com/